I have grown up around Red tractors and machinery all my life.  Being a fan of Red and a lover of history, I decided it was time to try my hand at tractor restoration.  I chose a Farmall B for several reasons: First it was a small and simple tractor, it has a plentiful supply of both new and used parts, cost should be within my price range, and finally, the first tractor my father recalls from his childhood was when his father purchased a used B Farmall sometime in the late 1940s.  

After cruising the Internet in search of Bs, I came across a B advertised on Craig's List.  While it needed engine work, it had good tires on it which was just what I wanted.  The tractor was located in North Missouri near Gentry.  The next day, I traveled to a farm near Gentry to look at it, then went back the next day pulling a trailer.  I purchased the B for $700.00 (April 2, 2010).  The owner included a used engine block which was telling of things to come.

It appears the tractor had been used to mow as it was set up for a belly mower.  The owner said they had last used it to power a grain auger but it was low on power and needed work.  The owner said his grandfather had planed to fix it up.  He had bought new tires but did not get around to working on it before his death.  It had sat for some time.  I think the family was sad to see it go.

 

 

 

 

 

 Fast Facts

The first Farmall B was produced September 5, 1939 and production ran through 1947.

The Farmall A & B were developed to compete with the Allis-Chalmers B.  International Harvester developed their own "torque-tube" concept (narrow tube connecting engine and transmission) and later had to pay royalties to Allis-Chalmers for patient infringement.

The Farmall B was targeted toward the smallest of farmers and in many cases replaced the draft horse.

The Farmall B had a narrow front-end and the driver sat off-center, the Farmall A had a wide front end and the engine/powertrain was set off center.

The purpose of the seat offset was for the operator to better see the crop rows they were cultivating.

The Farmall B did not have hydraulics.  Early Bs may not have had an electric starter or even a place to put one in the casting, but instead used the hand crank.

Factory: Chicago, IL
Engine: 113 cubic inch (C-113)
(In the 1950s, the 113 engine was increased to 123 cubic inches by increasing the piston bore).
Belt Power: 18.39 horsepower
Drawbar: 16.21 horsepower
Transmission: 4 speeds forward, one reverse.

The Farmall B was replaced with the Farmall C in 1948.

The Farmall A became a Super A, then 100, 130, and ended as the 140 spanning years 1939 - 1979.

http://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/machines_0202.html
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/8/286-farmall-b.html
Fay & Kraushaar. (1998). Farmall Letter Series Tractors

When introduced by International in 1939, the Farmall B was one of the most innovative tractors put to market. Priced around $600 at introduction, the B replaced horses on small farms and provided
supplemental power and delicate crop cultivating ability on larger farms...  
-- http://www.vintagetractordigest.com/antique-tractors/farmall/ih-farmall-b  

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Back row: Robert and Aaron, Seated: Lee and Carl.  I hope my B looks this good!

 

 

      Today I completed putting it together.  My goal was to get her running!  With little effort, the old Farmall B started and ran out well!  
     Over the next few weeks I replaced much of the wiring, made a better place for the battery, repaired the throttle lever, scraped and cleaned.  I drove it to town and washed it at the car wash.  I noticed the transmission and/or rear end had some noise in it though it shifted with ease.  It sounded like rough bearings or gears more than something going out.  When I got home I decided to change the transmission and rear-end oil.  When I pulled the plug, it appeared to be about half and half oil and water.  I flushed it with diesel fuel and put in new 90 wt. Mineral oil.  I think it will be fine.   

     I also pulled the steering gear and replaced a bearing in an attempt to take some of the slack out of the steering.  The steering universal joint was worn and my attempt to repair this turned into a story of it own, found later below.
     I worked to free both brakes.  The right hand brake broke which required me removing the right wheel and housing and replace the brake pad.  It took some time but went together nicely. 

 

 I was impressed with those who have added a second seat to their B Farmalls.  While this was not factory original, it was simple enough to do.   

My dad recalled when he was a child he rode on the axle housing as his dad drove the tractor.  His feet could rest on the drawbar below.       While this is a nice recollection, I did not think I could talk my wife into riding that way so I decided to add a seat.  This would be great if and when I decided to parade my little B.

So, back to Cook Tractor in Clinton where I found a fairly good seat and platform.  The hard part on this day was the bright sunshine and high temperatures around 100 degrees, with plenty of Midwest humidity to boot.  On top of that, I found that wasp love to make nests in old tractors and the heat only brings out their cranky side.             

Despite the heat and me tip-toeing around, I was able to remove the deck and seat assembly, without a torch!  That weekend I installed it on my B with the aid of a cutting torch, welding on a support bracket, and a few choice words used at just the right time.  Since the right and left sides of a B are nearly a mirror image, it was really quite simple.

Note:  Since the seat assembly contains the serial number, I looked this number up and found it came off a 1940 Farmall B



The Steering U-Joint
The steering u-joint on the B (located on the lower right hand
side at the front of the engine) showed much wear and slack.  I
first planned to replace the u-joint.  I purchased one from the
local dealer only to learn that it was the wrong size.  Upon
further observation, it look as though it was impossible to repair.
There was no snap ring or other way to remove the bearing caps.  
I would need to replace the yoke as well.  I looked at several Bs
at the salvage yard and all yokes were as bad as, or worse than
mine.  

International listed a new one for around $80.00.  It was more
than I wanted to pay but I ordered it anyway.  When I received
it, it was only 1/2 of what I needed.  While I thought I was
getting the complete u-joint and yoke assembly it was just one
side of the yoke; plus I would have to buy the u-joint too.  At the
cost of over $200.00, I sent it back and decided to make do.

Of course, it still bugged me, it is always the little things!  While
trying to think of ways to improvise, I came across a new
complete yoke and joint for $47.00 at a local farm store.  With
the help of my brother's shop and abilities, we were able to take
off the keyed ends and weld them onto this yoke.  As we
destroyed the old yoke, I noticed it was made without the roller
bearings as most u-joints have in the caps.  It appears the
designer did not engineer this part to last 60 years.  I think ours
will last at least that long!

Notable Quote:  When my brother was welding the two parts
together, he said it welded weird, like two different metals.  I
replied, "Well, you have the best metal industrial America made
in 1946 wed to the best metal industrial China makes today." 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

International Farmall B
Serial Number 158749
1946 Model (146700 - 182963)

 The wide rear wheelbase of the B was three inches wider than the trailer, so we rested one tire
on the trailer rail.

 Condition when purchased,

April 2, 2010

How the B looked after I removed the old mower frame and hand lift.

After checking the fluids, I
attempted to pull start it.  We
pulled it around and around the lot,
I fiddled with it for a while, but it
was a no go.  I was not surprised.  
The magneto was still in place, but
a coil had been added.  Which one
worked was anyone's guess.  I know
little about the magneto but I have
a neighbor who may?  As the engine
spun I noticed it did build oil
pressure.  The radiator seemed
good but I noticed a seep in the
engine block.  The left brake was
froze as well.

 June 3 & 4, 2010

     I decided to tear into the engine.  After removing the engine head, I took it to the local parts store for reconditioning.  I had many doubts after discovering what looked like JB Weld both on the head and between cylinder's two and three on the block (see above).  A day later they called and said the head was no good.  After cleaning it they found multiple cracks.  Decision time; should I overhaul this engine, overhaul the spare block, or look for another complete engine? 

    I located a C-123 engine off a Supper C in Hendricks, Minnesota (*All States Ag Parts chain of salvage yards) .  They said it was a
good engine and they would run it for me.  It supposedly came off a Super C that had been in a barn fire but was not hurt.  At $1000.00, it was more than I really wanted to pay.  I suppose though, by the time I collected all the parts and located a head, a complete major overhaul could approach that cost.  The C-123 engine was a little stronger running engine (10%) and some points were beefed up: the crankshaft was strengthened, piston rings updated to an "automotive type", and the connecting bearings were changed to a "micro" type bearing.  The C-123 engine came with a water pump.  Original As, Bs, and Cs, used a "thermosyphon" cooling system not requiring a water pump. (Fay & Kraushaar)
    So on June 4th, my wife Rita and I drove to Minnesota to make the exchange.  The people there were
very nice.  They had the engine running for me and it sounded sweet.     The only visible signs of fire was
the plug wires were a little melted, but they still worked just fine.  We also received a newer clutch
in the deal!

  Out with the C-113 (above), in with the C-123

June 7, 2010

 Today we coupled the new engine to the powertrain.  From my farming days years ago I have accumulated an assortment of tools, machinery, jacks, and more.  I call it the "spoils of my farming days!"  One thing I don't have is an engine jack or hoist.  However, with a little improvisation and steel-toed boots, the two mated
together with little problem.

 This Super C engine block number was 1-27-W which translates to the date it was cast:  1-21-1951.  Engine block part number is 354898R1 which confirms it to be a Supper C
Block.

 June 14, 2010
Made a trip about an hour south of where I live to the town of Clinton, MO.  Cook Tractor
(www.cooktractorinc.com) is a salvage yard located there.  I was able to purchase 3 original tear-drop lights and an original ignition pull switch.  The lights came off a junked C Farmall and were fairly rusty, but in otherwise good shape.  Salvage yards are so interesting to me.  I guess it is all the history!  

 June 19, 2010
Coupling the front end of the tractor to the block did take some minor modification.  The top right hand bolt was threaded on both the engine block and the front housing.     I decided to drill out the housing as to not alter the block.  The radiator hose size was 1/4 of an inch larger on the block side than the radiator. This required me to call the salvage yard and ask for an exchange from the old block, which they agreed to do with no problems.    Also, since Cs and Supper Cs had
a hydraulic pump that was powered off the governor drive on the right front of the engine crankcase, and
the B did not have hydraulics, it was necessary to build a small plate to cover this hole

 June 25, 2010

 Two of my brothers, my father, and I attended the IH Collectors Club Red Power Roundup in LaPorte,
Indiana. (see below).  This was our second IH tractor show to attend.  I include it here for the ideas
found.  I was able to purchase a decal kit, name plates, OE bar for mounting lights, and light wiring
overhaul kits.  We had a great time looking at hundreds of IH tractors.  see: www.nationalihcollectors.com

July 1, 2010
I sanded the light reflectors and painted them with chrome paint.  A person at the Red Power Roundup passed that idea to me.  I believe they turned out okay as did a sanding
and painting of the used tear-drop lights.

 



 December 27, 2010

 Brother Lee and I created this step. We put one on each side.  The idea was somewhat copied from others we had seen.  We also rebuilt the under-seat tool boxes.  Lee has great skill and patience with welding and metal construction.

 January 2, 2011

Parts ready for paint, when the weather warms!

 Since my last postings, I have painted and completed other minor repairs at a much slower pace.
 In May of 2012 I decided it was time to put it to work, though it was not finished.  I really enjoyed using the B to rake hay and found it very easy to maneuver.  Overall the tractor ran well.  The transmission or final gears are noisy but upon inspection of the gear oil found no metal shaving... a good thing.  At some point, this may need some attention.

In June 2012, I decided I needed a carrier for the back.  After building the carrier I decided I needed to go one step further.... See below.  I painted the Carrier "IH Implement Blue" as was the implement color of this time period.

 August 4, 2012
Showed the B in the local town fair (Puddle Jumper Days) today.  If was a nice cloudy day and the temps were not as bad as they had been.  There was a large crowd and I enjoyed
showing my work.  

 Fall Festival and Tractor Show at Powell Gardens. (2012)

 Young people inspecting the
Farmall B and an array of tools.
(May, 2013)

Morrison grand, great grand, and great great grand children enjoying the Farmall at the
Crabtree Farm.  (June, 2014)